Only a blank page on the SHQ site showing up on my browser!
IRRC these are the same buildings that Eureka used to sell back in the day. VB has a lot of them which feature in a lot of his 15mm games. I've only got a few, very nice models but the production moulds were getting a little worn. More pix here http://www.modeldads.co.uk/Life-at-the- ... buildings/
One of their barns.
What are people buying?
Re: What are people buying?
The work net-nanny has blocked your pic, but I'll have a look later. I've no idea if Eureka once sold them, but the range has changed hands a few times (originally The Drum, then Mayhem Miniatures and then God-knows-who). There was a very similar range of high-quality buildings, with near-identical Spanish/Italian buildings that was marketed by Emperor's Press for about 3x the price of The Drum buildings (in lightweight foamed resin)- I don't know what happened to that range either, but they were very nice and Mike H used to stock them at AB.
My wargames blog: http://www.jemimafawr.co.uk/
Re: What are people buying?
That may have been my muddling, not your employer ...
Their windmill. The arms are delicate!
Their windmill. The arms are delicate!
Re: What are people buying?
No, it's my employer... Anyone would think that they wanted me to do some work instead of browsing the internet and painting...
Ah yes, the windmill! I've got one of those, but one of the (fragile!) sails has fallen off and needs fixing.
Ah yes, the windmill! I've got one of those, but one of the (fragile!) sails has fallen off and needs fixing.
My wargames blog: http://www.jemimafawr.co.uk/
Re: What are people buying?
Yes Eureka did have the range at one stageRMD wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 1:55 am The work net-nanny has blocked your pic, but I'll have a look later. I've no idea if Eureka once sold them, but the range has changed hands a few times (originally The Drum, then Mayhem Miniatures and then God-knows-who). There was a very similar range of high-quality buildings, with near-identical Spanish/Italian buildings that was marketed by Emperor's Press for about 3x the price of The Drum buildings (in lightweight foamed resin)- I don't know what happened to that range either, but they were very nice and Mike H used to stock them at AB.
This is what I have
I think these are the North and Central European Houses
These are from the Mediterranean range
The Church and ? the Nunnery
Town buildings
Here are the bridge sections
Re: What are people buying?
Indeed. $1.1m reached in just over a day with loads of free stretch goals unlocked. I fear I am not strong enough to resistFreddBloggs wrote: ↑Wed Apr 11, 2018 3:06 pmI keep looking at that one, especially with the Deckert add on figure having been reached.
Re: What are people buying?
Yep, those are they!valleyboy wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:40 amYes Eureka did have the range at one stageRMD wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 1:55 am The work net-nanny has blocked your pic, but I'll have a look later. I've no idea if Eureka once sold them, but the range has changed hands a few times (originally The Drum, then Mayhem Miniatures and then God-knows-who). There was a very similar range of high-quality buildings, with near-identical Spanish/Italian buildings that was marketed by Emperor's Press for about 3x the price of The Drum buildings (in lightweight foamed resin)- I don't know what happened to that range either, but they were very nice and Mike H used to stock them at AB.
This is what I have
I think these are the North and Central European Houses
These are from the Mediterranean range
The Church and ? the Nunnery
Town buildings
Here are the bridge sections
My wargames blog: http://www.jemimafawr.co.uk/
Re: What are people buying?
More acid etch primer. Also black satin enamel spray for my PWS steel bases as they now come in bare galvanised steel to keep costs down.
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Re: What are people buying?
Which acid etch primer do you use Tim ?
Re: What are people buying?
For figures: Clostermans white, in a rattle can. They do grey and black as well.
For the steel bases I've just ordered Autotek grey. This primer is formulated for galvanised steel so it should be ideal for PWS steel bases.
I buy both on eBay. With the Autotek make sure you are buying the acid etch. They do a standard primer as well. If you think the acid etch is looking cheap from one seller make sure it's not just standard stuff. Autotek also do a plastic primer.
You must wear a breathing mask with multiple filters (I think mine cost about £20). You also need to spray outside – Clostermans is an industrial/professional type paint. I think it has a cellulose base but definitely not to be used in the house especially if you have pets. I was told years ago – 'if you can smell the paint you are breathing it in.' Not sure how the human or animal lung copes with acid in paint but it can't be good. I reckon it works best in dry air of at least 70 – 75 degrees. If it's too cold the primer won't atomise enough an being a car primer it's theoretically too heavy for figures but as long as it's hot enough outside it atomises perfectly so you can waft on the thinest of coats. If it gets too hot the paint dries before it hits the figure and you then get a rough surface. You need to ensure castings and paint are warmed up in the same ambient temperature.
Which ever you use you need to properly degrease the castings first as it will only work well on really clean metal. You can buy auto degreaser but so far I've used cellulose thinners then a 15 minute soak in white vinegar to very lightly etch the metal figure, followed by a final wash off in hot water. 30 mins in vinegar is too long – I tried this but you start to see the different metals in the alloy react differently so I thought 30 mins was etching it too much.
Once degreased I wear gloves to handle the figures so natural skin oils don't spoil the prepared surface. If it sounds like a lot of effort – it is but the results are amazing as the stuff really bonds into the metal. If you get it right you'd need a metal implement to scratch the primer off once it's dried, finger nail pressure won't lift it. Even priming brass pikes gives a great result. Being a naturally greasy metal brass is a pig to paint.
For the steel bases I've just ordered Autotek grey. This primer is formulated for galvanised steel so it should be ideal for PWS steel bases.
I buy both on eBay. With the Autotek make sure you are buying the acid etch. They do a standard primer as well. If you think the acid etch is looking cheap from one seller make sure it's not just standard stuff. Autotek also do a plastic primer.
You must wear a breathing mask with multiple filters (I think mine cost about £20). You also need to spray outside – Clostermans is an industrial/professional type paint. I think it has a cellulose base but definitely not to be used in the house especially if you have pets. I was told years ago – 'if you can smell the paint you are breathing it in.' Not sure how the human or animal lung copes with acid in paint but it can't be good. I reckon it works best in dry air of at least 70 – 75 degrees. If it's too cold the primer won't atomise enough an being a car primer it's theoretically too heavy for figures but as long as it's hot enough outside it atomises perfectly so you can waft on the thinest of coats. If it gets too hot the paint dries before it hits the figure and you then get a rough surface. You need to ensure castings and paint are warmed up in the same ambient temperature.
Which ever you use you need to properly degrease the castings first as it will only work well on really clean metal. You can buy auto degreaser but so far I've used cellulose thinners then a 15 minute soak in white vinegar to very lightly etch the metal figure, followed by a final wash off in hot water. 30 mins in vinegar is too long – I tried this but you start to see the different metals in the alloy react differently so I thought 30 mins was etching it too much.
Once degreased I wear gloves to handle the figures so natural skin oils don't spoil the prepared surface. If it sounds like a lot of effort – it is but the results are amazing as the stuff really bonds into the metal. If you get it right you'd need a metal implement to scratch the primer off once it's dried, finger nail pressure won't lift it. Even priming brass pikes gives a great result. Being a naturally greasy metal brass is a pig to paint.