What's on your workbench?

[tim.w]

Battling with my new Spencer Smith 42mm Boers today. They are an absolute pig to build having two separate arms to fit together in a firing pose. (Sorry Peter) I won't be making a whole force of these. They are nice when done though. Can't be far off finishing all the Ayton shinies now.

[tim.w]

Finally finished building and gap filling with resin.

[tim.w]

T64 for Kumbahyah forces. 3D print from.a guy on ebay. This was the better of the 3 models I bought. I'd buy more of the tanks, they're not great up close but good enough for Kumbahyah.

[Count Belisarius]

I've struggled to find decent kit on ebay. It all looks really rough... Ended up getting a resin model as at least it looked OK..

[Buff Redux]

I suspect that most of the 3D prints are FDM. A properly done resin print would look good.

[DougM]

I've been printing stuff in 15mm for Cold War...





Resin printer, Anycubic Photon S. Good enough for my purposes.

[Paul]

I suspect that most of the 3D prints are FDM. A properly done resin print would look good.

Problem with resin printing vehicles in 28mm is that you really need to make the render hollow, otherwise it uses too much resin and probably won't cure properly

[Paul]

I've been printing stuff in 15mm for Cold War..
Resin printer, Anycubic Photon S. Good enough for my purposes.

Those look great!
Are they small enough to get away without hollowing them?

[Count Belisarius]

I've been printing stuff in 15mm for Cold War...





Resin printer, Anycubic Photon S. Good enough for my purposes.

They look excellent

[DougM]

I've been printing stuff in 15mm for Cold War..
Resin printer, Anycubic Photon S. Good enough for my purposes.

Those look great!
Are they small enough to get away without hollowing them?

They have all been hollowed and holes dug on the underside so they cure quickly and save on resin. They are still very sturdy, and still quite light. It's a really simple process, just one click to hollow, and then click where you want the drainage holes.